Punching Above Its Weight: The Pocket Square

Punching Above Its Weight: The Pocket Square

Few details speak with such quiet authority as the pocket square, or pochette as it is known in French. This small square of silk, linen or cotton transforms a jacket into a statement of elegance, providing the finishing flourish that distinguishes the best dressed.

A Brief History
The pocket square’s roots stretch back millennia. Ancient Egyptians carried small linen cloths, sometimes dyed or scented, as symbols of status and hygiene. Greeks used perfumed squares to mask urban odours, while Romans waved them at gladiatorial games. In medieval England, King Richard II is credited with popularising the handkerchief as a fashion item. By the 1400s, European nobility embraced embroidered silk and lace versions as markers of wealth. The modern pocket square emerged in the 19th century with the rise of the two-piece suit. Men moved the practical handkerchief from trouser pocket to breast pocket to keep it pristine, and the decorative pochette was born. Hollywood icons like Fred Astaire and James Cagney cemented its place in 20th-century style. Though it briefly fell out of favour in the casual 1980s and 90s, the pocket square has enjoyed a stylish renaissance. Today, it remains a cornerstone of formalwear, and our collections continue this storied tradition.

When and How to Wear One
A pocket square should complement, but never copy, your tie or shirt. Choose a secondary colour from your outfit for harmony, or a contrasting hue for subtle flair. For black-tie events, a white silk square folded Presidential-style is classic. Daytime weddings or races call for patterned silks in soft pinks, lilacs or greens. Rule of thumb: never use it as a handkerchief - keep a separate one for practical needs. The square should peek just 1–2 cm above the pocket. Our silk squares are cut to the ideal 30–40 cm size, ensuring they drape beautifully in any fold.

Mastering the Folds: Five Essential Styles

The Presidential (Flat Fold)

Ideal for formal occasions and solid colours. Lay the square flat. Fold left to right, then bottom up three-quarters. Tuck in so a straight edge shows. Clean, architectural and White House-approved.

The One-Point

A versatile, elegant peak for any suit. Fold into a diamond, then bring bottom to top forming a triangle. Fold sides inward and tuck with the single point centred. Works beautifully with our spotted silks.

The Two-Point

Slightly more playful. Fold the bottom corner up but offset to the left, then fold sides to create two staggered peaks. Perfect for business or smart-casual looks.

The Three-Point (Crown)

For confident flair, offset folds create three peaks. Start as with the two-point, then fold the left corner up beside the second peak and fold the right side over. Striking in patterned designs.

The Puff

Relaxed yet refined, especially for silk. Pinch the centre, lift and drape, then fold the bottom up and tuck loosely. Fluff the “puff” to taste. Ideal for Favourbrook’s softer, floral or bee-motif squares.

Experimentation is encouraged - the beauty of the pocket square lies in personal expression. Whether you favour crisp linen for summer races or luxurious silk for evening dinners, a well-chosen pochette elevates any ensemble from merely correct to memorably stylish. In an age of fast fashion, the pocket square reminds us that true elegance is in the details. Slip one in your breast pocket and step out with confidence. It’s the smallest touches that make the greatest impression.

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