We've all been there. You've received an invitation in the post, and excitedly open it only to find that the sender has invited you to a party where the dress code is "Glamour with a twist". Seriously? Is that a dinner jacket with a water-squirting bow tie? Creative dress codes really help no one, and if you do receive an invitation detailing such, the best thing to do is rsvp for clarification! Most invitations will stick to the more tried, tested, and definable men's dress codes set out below, and as long as you follow our advice, you've never any reason to show up looking like the odd one out.
White Tie
White tie is the most formal of dress codes and most of us will likely never have to worry ourselves about it. But, if you're one of the minority who ever attend a state banquet, Royal ceremony, or such like, then you'll need to adhere to a strict set of sartorial rules. When it comes to white tie, there is no wiggle room for 'tweaks' outside of your pocket square, cufflinks, and boutonniere.
The jacket is specific to white tie, and so you should not think about using your morning coat, despite it having tails. For white tie, the jacket is black, double-breasted with 4-6 buttons, with silk facings and peak lapels, and a tailcoat that reaches down to the back of the knees. Dress trousers are perfectly fine, provided they have a satin stripe down the sides of the legs, and are usually worn with suspenders. A plain white marcella cotton shirt with a wing collar is non-negotiable. The suit is worn with a plain white dress shirt with a wing collar, preferably detachable.
Whereas with morning dress, the waistcoat can be a vital element of pattern and colour, no such luck with white tie. The waistcoat must be white, and with three or four buttons at the front. The length is vital. It must be long enough to cover the waistband of your trousers but not too long that it overtakes the front hem of the tailcoat. The bow tie is naturally white, and one's shoes should be patent black Oxfords. Some gentlemen will accessorise with some combination of white scarf, white gloves, white pocket square and black top hat, but that is the wearer's discretion.
Black Tie
The black tie dress code is typically reserved for evening events such as galas, awards, balls, and such like, but has also become an increasingly popular wedding day choice. The rules of black tie are simple to follow and don't leave much room for subjective error: one's trousers should feature a single row of silk braid down each outside leg and should be naturally tapered. The shirt is typically a classic white evening shirt with a marcella collar, bib and double cuffs, but pintuck styles are equally as sophisticated. It you want to be more extravagant, then our single frill dress shirt is well worth a spin! If you prefer to wear shirt studs, they should be black or decorative such as Mother of Pearl. A black hand-tied bow tie (the size of which should be proportionate to the wearer) is the natural accompaniment for almost all formal occasions, but where you might see or interpret 'Hollywood Black Tie', then a simple black tie can be substituted.
One step down the formality spectrum from 'semi-formal', business casual is not a licence to break out the polo shirt and jeans. Instead, it is more the domain of tailored separates, in the shape of a sports jacket, shirt and chinos or tailored trousers. Sports jackets can be plain styles but more often than not they work best when incorporating tactile cloths and patterns such as checks and stripes. Corduroy blazers are an excellent on-trend option, while linen styles are great for summer events. Prince of Wales checks and windowpane checks provide an excellent geometry, which you can complement with a pinstripe OCBD for example. Pleated trousers are a nice casual touch too, still retaining a beautiful sartorial style but are altogether more comfortable and laid back than flat-fronted styles. Your shoe options are deep, with loafers and Belgian loafers being great styles for the spring and summer months. Brogue and Derby styles are also a great fit for business casual, especially in the classic tan tones. Don't rule out elegant minimalist suede sneakers either.
