Demystifying Dress Codes

Demystifying Dress Codes

We've all been there. You've received an invitation in the post, and excitedly open it only to find that the sender has invited you to a party where the dress code is "Glamour with a twist". Seriously? Is that a dinner jacket with a water-squirting bow tie? Creative dress codes really help no one, and if you do receive an invitation detailing such, the best thing to do is rsvp for clarification! Most invitations will stick to the more tried, tested, and definable men's dress codes set out below, and as long as you follow our advice, you've never any reason to show up looking like the odd one out.

 

White Tie

White tie represents the pinnacle of formal dress codes, a rarefied realm most will never encounter. Yet, for the fortunate few attending a state banquet, royal ceremony, or similar occasion, adherence to its exacting sartorial standards is paramount. White tie permits no deviations beyond the personal flourishes of a pocket square, cufflinks, or boutonnière—every other element is rigidly prescribed.

The jacket, unique to white tie, is not interchangeable with a morning coat despite shared tails. It must be a black, double-breasted tailcoat with four to six buttons, adorned with silk facings and peak lapels, extending to the back of the knees. Trousers, typically worn with suspenders, should feature a satin stripe along each outer leg, maintaining a sleek, formal line. The shirt - a non-negotiable white marcella cotton with a detachable wing collar - grounds the ensemble in tradition. The waistcoat, equally unyielding, must be white, with three or four buttons, and precisely tailored: long enough to conceal the trouser waistband, yet short enough to sit above the tailcoat’s front hem. A white bow tie and patent black Oxfords complete the look. Optional accessories—white scarf, gloves, pocket square, or black top hat - offer discreet avenues for individuality, left to the wearer’s discretion.

Black Tie

 

 
 
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Black tie, the quintessential evening dress code, graces galas, awards ceremonies, balls, and increasingly, wedding celebrations. Its rules are straightforward, leaving little room for missteps. Trousers require a single silk braid along each outer leg and a naturally tapered fit. The shirt - a classic white evening style with a marcella collar, bib, and double cuffs - exudes timeless refinement, though pintuck variations offer equal sophistication. For a bolder statement, Favourbrook’s single-frill dress shirt merits consideration. Shirt studs, if worn, should be black or decorative, such as Mother of Pearl. A hand-tied black bow tie, proportionate to the wearer, remains the standard, though “Hollywood Black Tie” permits a sleek black tie as a modern substitute.

Footwear demands black Oxfords, either highly polished or patent leather, paired with black silk socks—no exceptions. Waistcoats, though not forbidden, are seldom seen with a dinner jacket, reserved for the most formal affairs. Cummerbunds, while optional, introduce a subtle splash of colour but must never coexist with a waistcoat. The breast pocket serves as the final canvas: a white handkerchief is traditional, and a polka dot can dazzle, but restraint is key—overzealous choices risk undermining an otherwise impeccable ensemble.

For those exploring alternative black tie, Favourbrook’s velvet dinner jackets offer a tactile twist. Unlike the sleek black dinner jacket, velvet shimmers under evening lights, with shawl or peak lapels lending versatility. Some may even opt for a velvet smoking jacket, blending tradition with flair.

 
 
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Morning Dress

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Morning dress, Favourbrook’s forte, centres on the morning suit - a staple for weddings and prestigious events like Royal Ascot, where it’s mandatory in the Royal Enclosure. The essentials are well-documented: a black morning coat, cashmere stripe trousers, white dress shirt, waistcoat, tie, and pocket square, anchored by black Oxfords. Yet Favourbrook expands the palette with alternatives like the charcoal morning suit, favoured by HRH King Charles, or the reimagined navy Ascot morning suit - each a testament to elegant variation within tradition.

Cocktail

 
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Cocktail attire often perplexes, but its breadth allows for sartorial creativity. Born in the 1920s amid the revelry of literary circles - think Evelyn Waugh sipping Sidecars - it remains a staple for weddings and milestone celebrations. The ethos is smart tailoring with a twist: glamorous or nonchalant. A dark suit with a silk rollneck or polo shirt, paired with double monk shoes, strikes a refined yet relaxed chord. Alternatively, a velvet jacket with an open-collar shirt and dress trousers exudes effortless charm. In summer, a pink linen suit with Prince Albert velvet slippers or tassel loafers and a crisp white shirt captures the season’s spirit.

Semi-formal

“Semi-formal” aligns closely with business attire, almost invariably calling for a suit. Opt for a traditional navy or charcoal suit, keeping patterns subdued - a faint chalk stripe or subtle check suffices. The goal is understated excellence, best achieved with a well-tailored merino 120s suit. Shoes offer slight latitude: black Oxfords are foolproof, but double monks or quarter brogues in an Oxford cut add restrained flair. The tie and pocket square are your palette for personality - choose with care.

 
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Business Casual

A notch below semi-formal, business casual is not a free-for-all of polos and jeans. Instead, it embraces tailored separates: a sports jacket, shirt, and chinos or trousers. Sports jackets shine in tactile fabrics - corduroy for trend-conscious appeal, linen for summer ease - or patterns like Prince of Wales or windowpane checks. Pair with a pinstripe OCBD for geometric harmony. Pleated trousers lend a relaxed yet polished silhouette, while footwear spans loafers, Belgian loafers, brogues, Derbys, or even minimalist suede sneakers in tan or neutral tones.

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