How should a morning suit fit? Strangely, it's not a question we often hear from our customers, presumably because they, like most others, consider the fit to be akin to a typical business suit. The morning suit is a different sartorial beast however. Sure, the trousers follow the universal fit for tailored trousers, resting on the top of one's shoe with a slight break in the shin; straight-legged, fitted around the seat, and so on. But whereas the business suit finishes at the hips, the morning coat has tails, which completely alters the drape.
The biggest difference in the morning coat then is that it should more closely follow the contours of the body. Now that's not to say that it should be body-con, only that the curves should be clearly accentuated. So it's critical that the shoulders fit well - that's your number one consideration because from there you can have the waist and back altered easily enough.
CHARCOAL SHAFTESBURY |
CHARCOAL MERINO |
CHARCOAL SHAFTESBURY |
It's in profile that the morning suit fit differs most considerably from the business suit. That's because a properly fitted morning coat should form an S-curve from your shoulders to the tail, with the cloth closely following the contours of your back, before swooping over your seat. It's this parabolic shape that makes a morning coat look so impressive - if it's absent then your left with a limp imitation of a cape - morning dress is fancy, but it's not fancy dress!
Fitting around the front is as per any other blazer or suit jacket - the lapels should sit perfectly flat against one's chest, likewise the collar about the neck. Any space here will make your morning coat look too big. When buttoned up, one should be able to pull the jacket away from one's chest an inch or two.
NAVY FURLONG WOOL |
NAVY FURLONG WOOL |
DOVE GREY DOUBLE- |
Now to the question of length. The rule of thumb is that the morning coat tail shoulder finish at the mid-point of the back of the knee. This can be adjusted by a few inches either way depending upon your height - if you're short then you may wish to finish the tails an inch or two higher to not give the impression of drowning in your coat, and vice versa for taller chaps.
Sleeve length is generally a matter of personal preference and the degrees of shirt cuff one likes to see from beneath the coat sleeve. Generally speaking, the sleeve should finish at the first touch of the thumb joint where it attaches to the wrist when your arm is hanging straight by your side. This allows for <1inch of shirt cuff to peep through which should suffice.
If you're in any doubt, please don't hesitate to book a free personal shopping appointment with a member of our highly experienced staff. They will be able to guide you through the process seamlessly and ensure that you have the perfect morning suit for you. Please allow up to 5 days for any alterations, too.
