As Royal Ascot gallops ever closer, many of our customers will soon be thinking about their morning dress. For some, the wearing of a morning coat will be a completely new experience, while for many others who already own a morning suit, the question will be how does one update the look for this year's event. Whichever camp you reside in, both groups share the necessary consideration of a waistcoat, that integral and most creative part of the whole formalwear ensemble. The waistcoat is the part of morning dress real estate that allows for the most expressive display of individuality. From the eccentric to the understated, the waistcoat is not only absolutely necessary in order to be permitted into the Royal Enclosure, but it is also something of a style signifier, separating you from the crowd of top hats and tails. So with that in mind, we have handpicked some of our team's favourite waistcoat styles with tips on how best to wear them. You'll no doubt resonate with some and raise a brow at others, but one thing we can say for certain is that coming into the store to try them on is always a good idea. What may cause you to wrinkle your face at online very often elicits an entirely different response in person!
The Double-Breasted Gabardine Wool Waistcoat
If there was ever a ‘classic’ Royal Ascot waistcoat, it would have to be our double-breasted wool gabardine style. Available in a wide variety of colours, this beautiful waistcoat style features sweeping lapels with Mother-of-Pearl buttons and two front flap-pockets. Gabardine wool is a durable, tightly woven textile characterised by its distinctive diagonal twill pattern. The term “gabardine” originates from the Spanish gabardina, meaning a long cloak, and was popularised by Thomas Burberry in the late 19th century, who used cotton gabardine for its water-resistant qualities. Wool gabardine is softer and more breathable than its cotton counterpart, offering warmth without excessive weight, making it ideal for summer waistcoats. Style it with a crisp white shirt and a subtle silk tie in a complementary hue—think pale blue or silver—for a timeless look that nods to tradition. Pair with classic black morning trousers and polished Oxfords to keep the focus on the waistcoat’s rich texture.