The Ultimate Guide to the Dress Shirt

The Ultimate Guide to the Dress Shirt

If you have ever worn black tie, then you are likely to have worn a dress shirt, too. In today's parlance, the term 'dress shirt' has come to mean any shirt designed to be worn in a formal setting, even that of an office, but for this article we are going to focus solely on the tuxedo shirt. In the late 19th century, a new form of formalwear emerged, gaining prominence in Tuxedo Park, New York, where an American client of the Savile Row tailor Henry Poole had started wearing a new form of formal jacket that didn't have tails. It was here that the tuxedo jacket gained popularity, and naturally, the shirt followed. It was designed to complement the tuxedo, distinguished by its pleated or bib front, as opposed to the plain front of your average white shirt.

 
 
 
main

Full-dress shirts were the early front-runners, coming with a front that was so heavily starched that it looked like a breast plate. These early shirts had detachable collars, too, which is very rare nowadays. The Marcella shirt is one of the more popular modern options, being a double-faced quilted cotton cloth, which gives the front a certain thickness and stiffness. The cloth's origins go back to the quilt makers of Marseilles but it was Lancashire textile mills that industrialised the fabric. It is very similar in structure to a piqué cloth, and these ays, the two terms are used interchangeably.

 

 
 
main
 
main
 

Key Elements of a Tuxedo Shirt 

Central to the tuxedo shirt's identity are its distinguishing features:

  • Bib Front: The hallmark of a tuxedo shirt, it offers variations like classic pleating or the textured elegance of a piqué or Marcella front.
  • Collar Styles: Choose between the classic formality of a wingtip collar or the modern versatility of a spread or mandarin collar.
  • Cuffs: Tuxedo shirts often sport French cuffs, which require cufflinks for closure.
  • Fabric: Typically fashioned from white cotton or a cotton blend, these fabrics maintain a crisp and formal appearance.
  • Closure: A clean and concealed button placket or stud buttons adds sophistication.

Styles of Tuxedo Shirts

At Favourbrook, we have long since constructed dress shirts in a variety of styles to suit individual tastes, preferences, and of course the diversity of formalwear events one can attend. The modern rules of formalwear certainly allow for greater experimentation, or deviation from the traditional, so it is not uncommon to see pink or even denim dress shirts. On the whole though, these are most popular dress shirt styles you will come across:

  • Classic Pleated Front: Timeless and traditional, featuring the distinctive pleated bib front.
  • Piqué or Marcella Front: The textured waffle-like pattern adds a touch of sophistication.
  • Plain Front: A modern, clean look with no pleats or texture.
  • Fly-Front: With a concealed placket for a sleek and streamlined appearance.
  • Collar Variety: Choose from the iconic wingtip collar for classic formality or the versatile spread collar, which complements different tie and bow tie styles.

The collar style will largely be determined by your choice of neckwear ie. whether you typically wear a black bow tie or tie, and what sort of knot you tie with the latter. On the whole, smaller, neater four-in-hand knots tend to look more sophisticated with black tie so you don't want too big a spread in the collar tips. Likewise with a bow tie, keep the collar size in line with the bow tie - you wouldn't choose a strong, large collar then pair it with a diminutive bow tie. 

The best way to understand which style you prefer is to come in store, where our extremely experienced staff will be able to personally guide you through the various options, and most importantly, give you an honest and well-informed opinion!

Shop Shirts

Older Post Newer Post

Leave a comment

Journal

RSS
Runners, Riders, Revellers: Get Ready for Royal Ascot 2026
Know How Menswear Style

Runners, Riders, Revellers: Get Ready for Royal Ascot 2026

There is little room for subjective interpretation when it comes to the dress code for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot, but that's not to...

Read more
It's A Hold Up: The Return Of Braces
Menswear Style

It's A Hold Up: The Return Of Braces

As trouser styles gravitated towards the hips, braces looked destined for the menswear scrapheap, but a new wave of sartorial clamour has made them more...

Read more
Runners, Riders, Revellers: Get Ready for Royal Ascot 2026

Runners, Riders, Revellers: Get Ready for Royal Ascot 2026

There is little room for subjective interpretation when it comes to the dress code for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot, but that's not to...

Read more
It's A Hold Up: The Return Of Braces

It's A Hold Up: The Return Of Braces

As trouser styles gravitated towards the hips, braces looked destined for the menswear scrapheap, but a new wave of sartorial clamour has made them more...

Read more
How to Dress for Ascot: The Favourbrook Guide to Womenswear

How to Dress for Ascot: The Favourbrook Guide to Womenswear

Discover how to dress for Ascot with Favourbrook’s womenswear guide, from race day dresses and occasion coats to hats, tonal styling and limited-run pieces made...

Read more
What to Wear to Garsington Opera 2026: Dress Codes, Style Tips, and Festival Highlights

What to Wear to Garsington Opera 2026: Dress Codes, Style Tips, and Festival Highlights

Fast becoming one of the highlights of the season, the Garsington Opera at Wormsley is a beautiful occasion to dress up for...

Read more
Fresh Summer Looks For Ladies

Fresh Summer Looks For Ladies

Summer is finally here, and it’s time to embrace lighter fabrics, softer colours, and silhouettes that feel as good as they look. From flowing midi...

Read more
Demystifying Men’s Dress Codes: How to Dress for Royal Ascot

Demystifying Men’s Dress Codes: How to Dress for Royal Ascot

A guide to dressing for the Royal Enclosure with judgement, confidence and a proper sense of occasion, from morning suits and waistcoats to the finer...

Read more
Dressing For A Royal Garden Party

Dressing For A Royal Garden Party

Over 30,000 people are invited to the Royal Garden parties each year. If you've been lucky enough to get an invitation, we'll show you how...

Read more
Demystifying Dress Codes: The Ultimate Guide to Black Tie

Demystifying Dress Codes: The Ultimate Guide to Black Tie

Traditional black tie is splendid and perfect for most, but for those with a streak of rebellion, there are certain ways to bend the rules...

Read more
How To Style A Summer Suit

How To Style A Summer Suit

With the UK bathed in glorious weather this week, it's the perfect time to examine the intricacies and details of styling a summer suit, paying...

Read more
How To Make A Statement At Summer Weddings

How To Make A Statement At Summer Weddings

Stunning floral dresses and elegant linen coats are just some of the things on the menu for a busy summer of weddings.

Read more
Demystifying Men’s Dress Codes: The Essential Top Hat Guide

Demystifying Men’s Dress Codes: The Essential Top Hat Guide

A guide to the history, fit, etiquette and care of the top hat, from Royal Ascot dressing to Christys’-made styles and exceptional vintage toppers available...

Read more
Summer Dress Codes For Ladies

Summer Dress Codes For Ladies

We've deciphered the most common summer dress codes for you to take away any of the ambiguity and ensure you arrive at the event with...

Read more