At Favourbrook, we're of course fierce champions of sartorial style, especially in the realm of formalwear. Elegant style has certain rules and caveats that one is always wise to follow, but to get to that next level of panache, what's required isn't so much a better this, or a more expensive that, but rather the confidence with which you can pull it all off. One man who had this in spades with the Italian business magnate Gianni Agnelli, often referred to simply as "L'Avvocato" (The Lawyer). Agnelli was more than just the chairman of Fiat, Ferrari, and Juventus; he was a symbol of Italian sophistication and flamboyance.
Born into one of Italy's wealthiest families in 1921, Agnelli's life was one of privilege and responsibility, a duality that was reflected in his sartorial choices which seemed to blend a modern business style with typically Italian sprezzatura. His style was a blend of the formal and the informal, the traditional and the avant-garde, all executed with a nonchalance that made him a global style icon.
But it wasn't Agnelli's joie de vivre that warmed him to all of Italy (although certainly everyone wanted to live like him), but rather the fact that he was honourable in his success. In 1943, Agnelli joined a cavalry unit that fought in North Africa and Russia, and was wounded twice on the Eastern front. Later he fought alongside the resistance When Agnelli finally returned to Italy, he threw himself into a disciplined pursuit of hedonism, becoming Italy's pseudo playboy Prince. The nation lapped it up.
The Agnelli Look
Agnelli lived in an era that was not short of famous well-dressed men, but what set the Italian apart was that his approach to dressing was unique, characterised by a series of distinctive quirks. His style was the epitome of sprezzatura, which in Italy refers to a sort of studied nonchalance. Agnelli's wardrobe was not about fashion per se, but about an innate understanding of style and personal expression.
One of Agnelli's most iconic and emulated style quirks was wearing his wristwatch over his shirt cuff. This seemingly eccentric habit was both a practical choice and a personal trademark. The story goes that Agnelli, ever the busy businessman, found it more convenient to glance at his watch without having to adjust his cuffs. This idiosyncrasy became a signature look, symbolising his disdain for convention and his commitment to practicality. It was also, more probably, due to the fact that Agnelli developed a taste for enormous watches!
Agnelli was also often seen wearing button-down shirts with the collar buttons deliberately left undone. This detail injected a sense of casualness into his otherwise tailored ensembles. It was an act of sartorial rebellion that communicated confidence and a relaxed attitude toward life.
Some other strange choices that Agnelli made all his own were wearing the wide end of ties shorter than the thin end, and often wearing his ties over his jumpers. Sometimes he wore heavy-duty hiking boots with his immaculately tailored suits!
Speaking off which, we'd be remiss not to talk about his tailoring. Agnelli's affinity for Caraceni double-breasted suits was another hallmark of his style. Unlike the boxy silhouettes popular in the 1980s, Agnelli's suits were impeccably tailored, hugging his frame without constricting it. He often chose suits in classic colours—navy, grey, and pinstripes—ensuring a timeless appeal. One anecdote tells of a German acquaintance going into Agnelli's tailors after him and ordering the exact same suits. This went on for some time, much to Agnelli's annoyance, until one day he ordered a disgusting pink suit. Sure enough he saw the German wearing it one time and exclaimed "Ha, I've got you!"
Outside of the boardroom, Agnelli's love for sports, particularly skiing and sailing, influenced his casual style. He was often photographed in well-fitted ski gear or nautical attire, always looking effortlessly chic. Above all, and despite his vast wealth, he possessed the one thing that money can't buy - exceptional taste, be it in cars, boats, women, or clothes.