Since its founding in 1711 by Queen Anne, Royal Ascot has stood as a pinnacle of British heritage, blending equestrian excellence with unparalleled style and social prestige. Held annually in June at Ascot Racecourse in Berkshire, this five-day event is far more than a horse racing meet - it is a celebration of tradition, elegance, and individuality, steeped in over three centuries of history. For Favourbrook, the Official Menswear Licensee of Royal Ascot, the event is a showcase of formalwear craftsmanship, where morning suits, top hats, and waistcoats become canvases for sartorial expression.
A Royal Foundation: The Origins of Ascot
Royal Ascot’s story begins with Queen Anne, a passionate equestrian who, in 1711, declared a patch of heathland near Windsor Castle ideal for horse racing. The first race, known as Her Majesty’s Plate, was held that August, marking the birth of Ascot Racecourse. The event grew under royal patronage, with eleven monarchs since Anne lending their support. By 1807, under King George III, the Royal Enclosure was established as an exclusive space for the monarch’s guests, cementing Ascot’s status as a high-society affair. In 1825, King George IV introduced the royal procession, a daily spectacle where the monarch and royals arrive in horse-drawn carriages, a tradition that continues to this day.
The racecourse, still Crown property, became a public venue in 1813, but its royal connection has always defined its character. The event officially became “Royal Ascot” in 1911, coinciding with its growing reputation as a global sporting and social event. Today, it remains a unique blend of pomp, sport, and style, often likened to a cross between a royal wedding and the Kentucky Derby, but with a distinctly British flair.
The Dress Code: A Legacy of Elegance
Royal Ascot’s dress code is as much a part of its identity as the races themselves, embodying a marriage of tradition and eccentricity. The foundations of this sartorial standard were laid in 1807 by Beau Brummell, a Regency dandy and confidant of the future King George IV. Brummell decreed that “men of elegance” should wear waisted black coats, white cravats, and pantaloons, setting a template for the morning dress still required in the Royal Enclosure. His preference for understated elegance over the flamboyant “Macaroni” style of the 18th century continues to influence Favourbrook’s designs, which prioritise clean lines and premium fabrics like superfine merino and recycled cashmere.
The Royal Enclosure’s dress code is famously strict: men must wear black, grey, or navy morning dress, including a waistcoat, tie (no cravats or bow ties), a black or grey top hat, and black shoes with socks. In 2012, Ascot formalised these rules in a style guide, ensuring clarity for racegoers. Favourbrook has played a pivotal role in modernising this tradition, notably introducing the navy “Furlong” morning suit in recent years - the first navy suit permitted in the Royal Enclosure.
For women, the dress code has evolved from the Victorian era, when Queen Victoria’s white wedding dress in 1840 set a global trend, to the 1920s’ shorter hemlines and Christian Dior’s New Look in the 1950s, popularised by Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret. Today, women’s dresses must have hemlines just above the knee or lower, with straps at least one inch wide, and hats with a minimum four-inch base are mandatory. Favourbrook’s women’s collection, featuring floral dresses and elegant linen coats, complements this tradition with seasonal flair.
Iconic Moments
Royal Ascot’s history is punctuated by extraordinary moments and colourful characters. One of the most memorable occurred in 2013, when Queen Elizabeth II’s horse, Estimate, won the Gold Cup, making her the first reigning monarch in over 200 years to claim the coveted trophy. The Queen’s unbridled joy as Estimate crossed the finish line, captured in photographs, remains an iconic image of Ascot’s emotional resonance.
Another legendary figure is Gertrude Shilling, dubbed the “Ascot Mascot” in the 1970s. Known for her extravagant outfits, Shilling once wore a hat so large it required a van to transport it, delighting the press and embodying Ascot’s playful spirit. Her son David’s millinery designs pushed the boundaries of the dress code, proving that individuality can thrive within tradition.
King Charles is often cited as the best ever wearer of a morning suit is another Ascot icon. His preference for charcoal grey suits, paired with meticulously tailored waistcoats, reflects a timeless appreciation for tradition and modernity, inspiring Favourbrook’s collections.
The Role of Favourbrook: Crafting a Legacy
Founded in 1993 by Oliver Spencer on London’s Jermyn Street, Favourbrook has become synonymous with Royal Ascot’s formalwear. As the Official Menswear Licensee, our Royal Ascot collections are a highlight, featuring morning coats in black Windsor herringbone, Hampton barathea, and Seaton cashmere, alongside pastel linen waistcoats and silk ties. The waistcoat is a Favourbrook specialty, with double-breasted styles among the most popular. Our commitment to sustainable fabrics, sourced from British mills, and our London-made garments ensure individuality and longevity.
A Living Legacy
Royal Ascot’s legacy lies in its ability to evolve while honouring its roots. From Queen Anne’s vision to Beau Brummell’s dress code, from Gertrude Shilling’s flamboyance to King Charles’s elegance, the event reflects Britain’s social and sartorial evolution. Favourbrook embodies this spirit, crafting formalwear that respects tradition while embracing modernity. As Anna Lisa Balding, wife of champion trainer Andrew Balding, advises, “Keep a spare pair of tights in your bag!”—a reminder that Ascot’s glamour thrives on preparation and spontaneity.
Whether it’s the royal procession, a historic win like Estimate’s, or the sight of a Favourbrook morning suit in the Royal Enclosure, Royal Ascot remains “like nowhere else.” For Favourbrook, it is a stage to celebrate craftsmanship, individuality, and the enduring allure of formalwear, ensuring that every racegoer becomes part of Ascot’s storied tapestry.
