Demystifying Dress Codes: The Ultimate Guide to Black Tie

How To Style Classic Black Tie 

Let's tackle classic black tie first. It emerged in the 1860s in Victorian England as a relaxed alternative to the ultra-formal white tie (tails and all). It was dubbed the "dinner jacket" by us Brits, inspired by Prince Edward VII's preference for a tailless smoking jacket at informal dinners. Across the pond, it became the "tuxedo" after Griswold Lorillard wore one to a ball at the exclusive Tuxedo Park Club in New York in 1886, sparking a trend among America's elite. Precision is key to nailing it without looking like a waiter. The centrepiece is of course the dinner jacket: single- or double-breasted in black or midnight blue wool (barathea or mohair for warmer climes), with satin or grosgrain silk facings on peaked lapels or a shawl collar. No notch lapels - that's business suit territory. Pair it with matching trousers: high-waisted, flat-front, with a single silk braid down each outer seam. No belt loops; use braces instead. A crisp white dress shirt with a marcella (piqué) bib front, French cuffs, and a cutaway collar. As for the bow tie, pre-tied is a faux pas. so get practising in the mirror. A cummerbund is useful for covering the sometimes unsightly waistline (pleats up, for catching crumbs, legend says). Shoes should come in the form of patent leather Oxfords or opera pumps with grosgrain bows if you're fancy. 

For those who prefer to stay true to the timeless foundations of black tie while embracing a modern edge, our Tommy tuxedo offers the perfect balance. This sleek ensemble features a classic black dinner jacket crafted from 100% superfine wool, with silk grosgrain notch lapels that lend a subtly casual yet refined attitude - less formal than traditional shawl or peak lapels, but no less elegant. Paired with wide-leg black dress trousers, also in superfine wool and accented by a silk satin stripe down the legs, the Tommy creates a contemporary silhouette that's both relaxed and commanding. The trousers' wide-leg design, complete with single pleats, avoids any taper, gradually widening toward the hem for a fresh take on proportion that nods to current menswear trends without straying from black tie's core principles. Ideal for the party season or any formal affair where you want to turn heads with understated sophistication, the Tommy tuxedo proves that classic black can feel utterly new.

A Break From The Classic

This season, we have created a number of different velvet jacket styles, from single- and double-breasted dinner jackets to beautiful smoking jackets with traditional frogging details and sweeping shawl lapels. All of them can be a direct replacement for a classic black or midnight tuxedo jacket, paired with black dress trousers, but they offer a different textural quality that will make you stand out from the crowd. Alongside our eclectic velvet dinner jacket collection, which this season includes styles crafted in tones such as claret, racing green, burgundy, olive and sapphire blue, there is also the perennial silk botanics collection, which is recognisable for its vibrant geometric floral patterns. These are the jackets for the extravagant, the rulebreakers, and the mavericks. Each jacket has been delicately embellished with exquisite embroidery, resulting in a unique sartorial work of art. 

The Essential Accessories

When it comes to completing your evening look, the bow tie is more than an accessory - it's a statement of personal style. Considerations abound: start with material, where silk offers a smooth, lustrous finish for traditional elegance, while velvet provides rich texture and depth, especially when matching a velvet dinner jacket for a cohesive look. Colour plays a pivotal role too - classic black or midnight blue keeps things understated and versatile, but bolder hues like claret, sapphire, or racing green can echo the tones in our velvet or silk collections for a harmonious pop of personality. Size and shape matter as well. Our large party bow ties deliver dramatic impact for high-profile events, while slimmer options suit a more restrained aesthetic. Always ensure it complements your lapel width: wider for shawl collars, narrower for peaks. Ultimately, let your bow tie reflect the occasion and your mood.

The cummerbund: a perennial debate in black tie circles - to wear or not to wear? Traditionally, this pleated waistband serves both form and function, sitting neatly atop your trouser waistband to create a seamless line, hide shirt creases, and add a touch of polish, especially with single-breasted jackets or shawl lapels. In our view, it's a yes for classic ensembles, where it enhances the sleek silhouette and offers an opportunity for subtle embellishment - think our matching silk or velvet sets in black duchesse satin for immaculate coordination with bow ties, or patterned options to tie into the Botanics line's autumnal vibes. However, modern flexibility allows you to forgo it entirely: double-breasted jackets naturally cover the waist, while a waistcoat provides an alternative layer of sophistication. Skipping the cummerbund can lend a cleaner, more contemporary feel, particularly with our Tommy tuxedo's wide-leg trousers, but if you do wear one, ensure the pleats face upward and match it to your bow tie for harmony.

The Dress Shirt

No evening ensemble is complete without the right dress shirt, and our collection spans a spectrum from minimalist to ornate, each designed to elevate your look with purpose. For a clean, modern foundation, consider the simple hidden placket (or fly-front) style: its concealed buttons create a streamlined canvas that's ideal under any jacket, allowing velvet or silk textures to shine without distraction. Step up to bib-front shirts, like our white Marcella poplin cotton option, which features a textured pique bib for added formality and dimension; wear it to formal galas for that crisp, structured contrast against satin lapels, as the bib draws the eye upward and maintains elegance even when the jacket is removed. Pleated bibs take this further with pintuck stitching, as seen in our slim-fit white or ivory poplin pleated pintuck shirts. The vertical pleats add tactile interest and movement, making them a go-to for events demanding personality, like weddings or awards nights, where they pair brilliantly with embroidered jackets for layered sophistication. For the truly dramatic, our frill options, such as the white poplin cotton single frill shirt, bring vintage flair with ruffled detailing; reserve these for extravagant affairs or when channelling a romantic, rule-breaking vibe, as the frills add volume and whimsy, best balanced with a simple black bow tie to avoid overkill.