Everything But The Jacket

Everything But The Jacket

A magnificent dinner jacket is no excuse to neglect the rest of the outfit. Black tie rewards attention to the smaller decisions, from the line of a trouser leg to the fold of a pocket square. The aim is a coherent whole, with every element working quietly in the same direction. So you've invested in a Favourbrook dinner jacket... here is how to get everything else right...

Olive with Gold Bee Embroidered Velvet & Leather Slippers, worn with evening tailoring

Evening Dress Trousers
Start with proper evening trousers, not the lower half of your office suit or a random black pair you found at the back of your wardrobe. A silk stripe down each outer seam and plain hems, without turn-ups, are the classic requirements. Our Hampton dress trousers pair Yorkshire barathea wool with grosgrain silk stripes and brace buttons. Wear them high enough to keep the waistband concealed beneath your waist covering; braces maintain the line without a belt’s bulk. Aim for a clean fall over the shoe, not a gathering of cloth. Have the length checked while wearing your evening shoes and chosen braces - this will make all the difference.

Dress Shirts
White remains the benchmark, with a turndown collar and double cuffs providing a dependable starting point. Choose our Marcella bib-front shirt for crisp texture and a concealed fastening, or our pleated pintuck style
for a different rhythm beneath the lapels. Studs are elegant where the shirt accommodates them, but a concealed button placket is equally acceptable. Add considered cufflinks and leave the novelty pair at home. For those who like their eveningwear served with a side of flamboyance, our frill front shirts will satiate your desire to turn heads when you walk into a room.

 
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Sky Blue Stanfield Cotton Large Frill Shirt — flat
 

Bow Ties
For traditional black tie, choose a black, self-tied silk bow and coordinate its finish with the lapel facings. Our 
grosgrain and duchesse satin styles offer matte texture or lustre respectively. Keep the scale proportionate to your face and collar; a larger bow should be a considered choice, not an accident. Practise the knot before the taxi arrives.

Cummerbunds
The cummerbund covers the junction between shirt and trousers, creating a finished line beneath a single-breasted jacket; wear the pleats facing upwards. Our black grosgrain silk set supplies a coordinating bow tie to keep things easy and stop you overthinking. An evening waistcoat is an alternative, never an accompaniment, while a closed double-breasted jacket needs neither. Think clean continuity, not another opportunity to pile on decoration.

Pocket Squares
White or ivory is the assured finishing touch, and the square should complement rather than duplicate your bow tie. Our Ivory Albert and White Satin silk squares keep things elegant. Try a restrained puff for silk, with enough showing to register rather than dominate. If your jacket already has plenty to say, the pocket square need not raise its voice.

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