The Wiltshire Gilet

The Wiltshire Gilet

The gilet spent much of the last few decades in the wilderness, too often glimpsed on golf courses and in airport lounges, doing a job, asking for no love. Then the city boys and Sloane stars began to embrace it once again, turning it into a sort of emblem of business and entrepreneurship. That particular flavour of gilet was almost always technical - a layer that proved the wearer's unflappable temerity under pressure. Our answer is the Wiltshire, which takes the classic sleeveless shape and elevates it into something approaching smart tailoring: warmth and definition without the formality, or the shoulders, of a jacket. Our version is not for business, but rather, THE business.

A Brief History

The word is French for waistcoat, and the garment's lineage is rather longer than its modern reputation: from the sleeveless jerkins of the fifteenth century - designed for warmth without hindrance to a working man's arms - to the embroidered waistcoats of the eighteenth century. The brief has never changed; only the dress codes around it have.

The Cloths

The Wiltshire comes in three velvet families. The cotton velvets - in fawn, chocolate brown, olive, navy, claret and black - are plush, tactile, and made for pairing with smart separates. The Mayfair velvet, in navy and rust, is a 100% cotton cloth with a deep, even pile, cut with a Nehru collar, three patch pockets, gold bulb buttons and a midnight paisley lining, and made in the United Kingdom. And for those who'd rather make an entrance, the Bees velvets carry Favourbrook's signature bee motif - in navy-black, burgundy, and olive and gold on cotton.

Styling

Over a shirt and trousers, it is dressed enough for dinner; under a coat, it lends warmth without adding anything to the shoulder. Try it with corduroy trousers and a knit tie for the country weekend, or over a roll-neck when the heating fails. The Wiltshire keeps the balanced cut and practical pocketing of the original and adds the finish of proper tailoring: a structured silhouette, brass-buttoned polish, and cloths that earn their place at the table. The result is the rare gilet that holds its own at the smartest country piles.

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