Not For Wallflowers: The Patterned Dinner Jacket

Not For Wallflowers: The Patterned Dinner Jacket

Black tie is one of the few dress codes that tells you almost exactly what to wear, which is precisely why the patterned dinner jacket is so effective. When the shirt, the bow tie and the trousers have all been agreed in advance, the jacket is the only place left to say anything. The trick, as with any good after-dinner speech, is knowing how much to say.

Nene: Pattern In A Whisper

For the man who'd like to be noticed by the people standing nearest to him and no one else, start with Nene. A silk and rayon velvet, its motif is worked into the pile itself rather than printed on top, so the pattern shows in texture rather than colour. The Midnight Black Nene Wide Lapel Dinner Jacket is navy upon black, cut with a generous lapel: patterned, yet sitting squarely within black tie rather than beside it. It keeps a slim line, with grosgrain silk lapels and a midnight paisley lining, while the Green Nene Dinner Jacket sets small olive batons on a dark background, its plain-faced grosgrain silk lapel ensuring the pattern stops obligingly at the edge.

 
Green Nene Dinner Jacket — front
 
 
 
 
 

Winnington: The Woven Statement

The Midnight Red Winnington Newport Jacket is cut from a woven silk and wool, with an embroidered floral design in red and gold on navy, peak lapels and the single-button Newport silhouette. This is the jacket for the dinner where there will be speeches and, quite possibly, a portrait. It is also available in a stunning gold version.

Netherbury, Petersham and Parbrook: The Embroidered Newports

And then there are the peacocks. The Netherbury Newport, in indigo or stone, carries a floral embroidery that rewards a closer look; the Navy Petersham Newport is embroidered throughout with a bold floral motif; and the Multi Parbrook Newport is the most exuberant of the lot, in a vibrant multicoloured floral. Cut from linen blends, they are made for the drawing room with a roaring fire, or New Year's Eve somewhere considerably warmer than London.

The Rules Of Engagement

The latitude a patterned jacket allows is conditional on everything else being beyond reproach. Keep the shirt white and plain, the bow tie black, the trousers black with a satin or grosgrain stripe, and the shoes polished patent or velvet slippers. That way, the pattern reads as a decision rather than an accident. One statement per outfit is plenty - these jackets have plenty to say without being interrupted by noisy accessories.

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