Mastering The Classic Dinner Jacket

Mastering The Classic Dinner Jacket

The dinner jacket is not a costume. It is a statement that has remained largely unchanged for a century. Black, midnight and ivory remain the three tones that are still regarded as traditional, while velvet and other silk iterations are considered more contemporary siblings. At Favourbrook, we of course cut all three classic tones. Once upon a time, it was the midnight version that was the default option, but the black dinner jacket is now widely regarded as the go-to style for formal eveningwear. Midnight cloth tends to look blacker than the black version under artificial lighting which is why it is often the discerning choice. Ivory tuxedos are summer’s loophole - destination weddings, tropical evenings, any room in which black would look like a threat - and while they are not in any sense 'banned' across the autumn/winter period, they may jar somewhat. 


After tone comes the classic architecture - single-breasted is the default: one button, a clean fall, , slim silhouette, no argument. Our Black Hampton wool, Black Dalton and the slimmer Tommy cut (with a rebellious notch lapel) all live here. Double-breasted is the declaration. It offers a squarer shape and a certain Edwardian confidence; it also demands a torso that can carry six buttons without looking stuffed. The Black Hampton double-breasted and the Ivory Randwick linen DB are perfect specimens - one for winter rooms, one for heat.

As for lapels, the shawl is the oldest evening line: a continuous curve, no notch to interrupt the silk. Clarendon and the Hampton and Dalton shawl models are the purest expression. The peak lapel is the more martial choice, pointing upward, sharpening the shoulder with those sharp angles. A notch on a dinner jacket is permissible only if the rest of the garment is so correct that the notch looks like wit rather than a day suit that got lost - that's what we've done with the Tommy tuxedo, using a wide-leg dress trouser for a more relaxed an modern overall aesthetic.

A short word on cloth. Wool barathea is the classic handle: it features a tight weave which gives it an almost matte appearance, affording the shiny silk grosgrain lapels greater contrast. Our Clarendon dinner jacket is a wool and silk blend which offers a glossier finish, while our Dalton cloth is 93% virgin wool with 3% elastane for superior comfort. All of our dinner jackets come lined in the house paisley pattern.

If you are intending to upgrade your black tie collection this season, these classics are the perfect place to start.

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