The Season Of The Waistcoat

The Season Of The Waistcoat

A dress is one way to make a statement. A waistcoat is quite another. Our womenswear collection treats the garment as architecture rather than homage: single- and double-breasted shapes cut for a feminine fit, in the same quality of silks, velvets and linens that define our coats and jackets.

But why the waistcoat? And when does it usurp the dress? Evening engagements are where our waistcoats punch above their weight, in large part thanks to the sharp structural definition. A single-breasted waistcoat draws a vertical line through the torso and gives the waist something to do, whether it is worn against the skin, over a silk shirt, under a velvet coat, or with cigarette trousers as a complete evening silhouette. It is formal without being fragile, and boasts an powerful femininity.

If the structure sets the mood, then this season's fabrics do the expression. Silk douppion, silk velvets and silk jacquard all bring a stunning array of subtle textures to the party, in rich seasonal tones. The house bees - black and gold on silk jacquard, or gold bees on black cotton velvet - speak to our romance and playfulness. They are patterns with a pedigree, not a novelty print. Oyster mini sequins are another emotive style that can be combined with matching lounge pants for a sophisticated alternative to a tuxedo. 

Waistcoat Single-Breasted Black Gold Bees Silk Jacquard

Proportion and cut is everything, which is why we have perfected our waistcoat silhouettes over our three decades in business. The waistcoat should sit close without compressing; it should finish cleanly over the waistband of a cigarette pant or a wide palazzo; and it should leave enough shirt or skin at the arm that the look does not close in. Double-breasted styles in plain velvet have great presence and work especially well when the jacket comes off. Single-breasted styles are the easier layer under a coat.

Worn with purpose, the waistcoat is the most concise evening garment in our collection.

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